For the FENDI Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023, the creative director of the house, KIM JONES “concentrates on the techniques and crafts of couture, with the lightness, fluidity and attitude of today”.
This season, Kim Jones and the crafts people of the Fendi ateliers continue to approach the couture collection as an inner-world palimpsest, where iterations, transparencies and techniques of the past go to make up the present and move subtly into the future.
Couture traditions are made both human and approachable, light with a sense of luminosity, lucidity and ease for the wearer. Eschewing ‘costume’ and embracing a softer, more yielding feeling of agency for the woman in the clothing, a mutability is sought and expressed. The flou is concentrated on and in the form of the dress, yet an idea of the ensemble is also revived in a new sense, with a notion of purposeful flux and flexibility replacing impenetrability. Winged sleeves are often detachable; lingerie is designed as part of a look, often in the same intensely embroidered and unexpected fabrications, even when invisible; coats mirror the intense embroidery of their matching dresses on the inside yet can be reversed; ‘apron’ wrap skirts can also be worn as stoles.
This is clothing that is not just about being looked at but about being lived in.
Draping and tying on the body, the exploration of lace and its placement, the hand-pleating motifs, together with an elevation of exceptional knit, give a sense of the sculptural and organic while at the same time displaying virtuoso ‘sprezzatura’.
An idea of done and undone, a machine world versus an organic one, making hard soft and vice versa comes together with the supreme skills of the Fendi ateliers in the motif of the metallic leather-lace. At times appearing like chainmail – particularly in the recurring gloves – exceptionally soft and malleable leather is handcrafted with both lace-like cut-outs and inset with lace intarsias for a passage of dresses with their matching ensemble underwear. In a similar vein, yarn in the form of the extraordinarily delicate Japanese mohair, Fuuga – the finest gauge to be found in the world – is worked on a frame and becomes the apotheosis of crochet in gossamer lightness more akin to lace in cascading gowns.
Fendi’s haute couture spring summer 2023 collection is a array of delicate yet very intricate designs that can be bridal inspiration, lingerie inspired gowns that are exquisite evening wear options for today’s refined woman. The accessories, jewellery and even the beauty look is bridal worthy, make sure to scroll down!
THE JEWELLERY & BEAUTY LOOK