Dior Fall/Winter 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri is the vivid reinterpretation of the 1950’s focusing in the French style of extraordinary figures.
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, each collection is an opportunity to reflect on what exactly clothing is in relationship to the body and to fashion.
Exploring the history of Dior and to further delve into French style by focusing on three extraordinary figures: Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco. These three women shared an independent spirit that guided their choices. Singular protagonists, each of them was able, through their lifestyle, to subvert feminine stereotypes that were part of the post-war mind set.
For Catherine Dior, this was accomplished through her choice to grow and sell flowers as a message of hope. For Edith Piaf and Juliette Gréco, it was through their voices and their supreme stage presence. Expressing the soul of Paris or inspired by existentialist thinking, they created a wardrobe that reappropriated their heritage and staged it in a narrative marked by physical emotion and the intense rhythm of poems, literary texts turned into unforgettable songs.
The experience of clothing is the tactile embodiment of a form of thinking, a means of approaching, of tuning into the world. This Dior collection is the very signature of a femininity that goes against the grain. Rebellious. At once strong and fragile.
The floral motifs chosen by Monsieur Dior have been revisited: mottled fabric is interwoven with a metallic thread that breathes life into the fabric, rendering it malleable, erasing contours to obtain an abstract effect. Primary colours take center stage: ruby, emerald, topaz yellow, blue. Delicately nuanced tartan fabrics distinguish coats, jackets and straight skirts, which can also be worn beneath large coats, like the “corolle” skirts. Poplin also shimmers with metallic thread. Embroidery composes little bursts of light.
Celebrating the kaleidoscopic image of a femininity outlined by powerful icons, inhabited with awareness, these creations suggest emotional paths for the new generations of women shaping our future.
BACKSTAGE WITH PETER PHILIPS, GET THE DIOR BEUATY LOOK
Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior makeup, created a beauty look that continued to celebrate powerful femininity.
Peter Philips explained: “To embody this strong woman, i chose to emphasize the eyes by working on a slightly unpolished, harsh smoky eye. as the focal point of this look, eyes were encircled in black to accentuate them and create a contrast with a pure and fresh complexion.” artist Joana Vasconcelos created a richly colourful and textured décor for the runway show, in contrast with the simple, intense eye look.
Peter Philips describes “A look emphasized by a deconstructed smoky eye created using the 5 couleurs couture 079 black bow palette and diorshow 24h stylo 091 matte black applied strongly underneath the lower lashes, and more lightly to the upper lash line, leaving the eyelid bare. i also repeatedly applied the dark shadow to the inner and outer corners of the eyelids to frame the eyes.” he went on to say: “To finish, I structured the eyebrows with the diorshow brow styler and diorshow on set brow.”
Peter Philips described a “fresh and natural complexion prepped with dior capture totale le sérum, followed by the blurring base dior forever glow veil and the dior forever skin glow foundation. Then touch-ups were carried out with Dior forever skin correct. lastly, as a finishing touch for a flawless complexion, excess shine was absorbed with the brand-new, limited edition Dior skin mattifying papers.”
“Lips looked natural in rouge Dior satin balm 000 Dior natural.”
“The nails looked natural in Dior vernis 108 muguet.”
Styled to look severe and disciplined, the hair was pulled back and gathered into a smooth or plaited low pony tail or chignon at the nape. some models wore headbands or hats, designed by Stephen Jones.