From embroiderers to tailors, pattern cutters to leather workers, dressmakers to furriers, the Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2024 collection is an approach to the person wearing couture is to reaffirm their humanity; they are always ‘someone’ rather than ‘something.’
“I was thinking about Karl Lagerfeld’s futurism with FENDI,” says Kim Jones, FENDI Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear. “In the collection there is a humanism at the heart of this future; there’s the body, the silhouette within the silhouette, the person and the handwork of the couture. The collection is about structure and decoration, where the two become indivisible. I wanted an idea of precision and emotion at once.”
From simplicity in geometry to primal pull of croco, a ‘human futurism’ travels through Fendi Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024 collection, conflating constants of the past to make the present and the future. Here structure becomes decoration and decoration, structure.
Beginning with a new, ‘Scatola’ silhouette – meaning ‘box’ – and ending on the same, (seen in the image below) precision geometric pattern cutting in the flou creates new volumes with lightness and structure in fabrics like silk gazar.
THE ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
The tailleur follows the form of the female body through rigorous cut, ergonomically embracing the wearer in traditionally masculine tailoring fabrics such as super kid mohair. Made in the finest cashmere and vicuna yarns, elevated rib knit dresses elegantly swaddle with knotted ‘Shibari’ harnesses integral to the silhouette. Supple croco travels through the entire collection, encompassing clothing and accessories while exerting an instinctive draw. Each approach optimizes lightness, sinuousness and movement, gleaned from the discipline of dance.
Decoration and structure truly become entwined within the collection and appear almost as a future skin showcased in the embroideries. For example, a new form of feather-like, all-over fringe appears as a new kind of pelt. Organically shaped, ultra-light and fluidly contoured by rigorous yet delicate hand embroidery, it sinuously moves with the wearer.
FINE JEWELLERY & THE BAGUETTE BAG
The idea of fine jewellery enters the realm of precious practical objects. In ‘Singular Vision’ fine eyewear, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Fendi Artistic Director of Jewellery, are made in 18k white gold and white diamonds. These can be sunglasses, spectacles or simply used for enhancement and adornment.
Precious practicality is also extended to the handbags in the collection – a series of bespoke Baguette bags. Echoing the clothing materials – from mink-lined supple crocodile to fringed and fluid embroideries – Fendi Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, Silvia Venturini Fendi, approaches the Baguette bags as sumptuous, personal objects that go from Nano to Large.
There is also the introduction of the Fendi Gems Baguette bags on catwalk, with intense craftsmanship and precious materials. The show features a Mini Baguette bag with hardware accomplished in 18k white gold and white diamond-pave-encrusted buckle and platinum leaf applied to croco.
Follow the link here to see previous Fendi Haute Couture collections that will inspire your bridal look.